H-Quad – Connector

Even though  the gold connectors make a pretty stable connection, I can´t say if it will stay that way after some pluggings and unpluggings.. so for safety´s sake, I added some screws to keep the parts together.

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H-Quad – ESCs and Spacers

I am still trying to get my hands on 13x13mm (or 12x12mm) aluminum square rods, but so far I didn`t find a source. Well, worst case, I`ll need to use 10mmx10mm, not my preference, but I guess it´ll work. So today I opened up the ESCs, put new cables in and then soldered them onto the connectors.

To add some rigidity to the body, I made some aluminum spacers.

Now that I know where everything will be placed, I´ll go ahead and cut some material out of the fiberglass, to lighten the frame a little bit.


H-Quad – Next steps

After I managed to get a workable connection going, it was time to put it into use… so I made the foward part of the tripartite H-Frame and also the middle part. Nothing much so far, but I guess you will get the idea, once you take a look at the pictures.

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Next Try – Connector for Stick-together-H-Quad

After the aluminum fiasko, I started rethinking the idea and came up with a simple modification to make the concept work. As insulation, I added a strip of glass fiber sheet. The gold connectors (this time I used 2mm instead of 4mm) are glued to the sheet and then placed on the aluminum U-profile.

Unfortunately I ran out of my trusty UHU Endfest 300 glue. Today I went ahead and tried to get more, but both hardware stores I checked didn´t even have the brand… so I ended up with some Pattex crap, which didn´t work at all.The nice thing about Endfest, it can be tempered, thus increasing stability and hurrying up the process. In this instance, another thing comes in handy. At room temperature, the glue is sticky and more or less keeps the shape you put it in, at higher temperatures it gets liquid. In this case, this is nice, since it will flow down to the base, where the connectors go through the fiberglass and settle there before it hardens (For other purposes this can be a pain in the a**).

Will need to try again to get some Endfest 300…. so stay tuned for more!


I finally found some Endfest 300 this morning and gave it a try soon afterwards. Worked like a charm, here is the result:



The connection is pretty solid, I guess I could put some kilograms of weight on it, before it would come apart. And the insulation is ok too ^^


If someone wants to do something similar, I´d suggest not using U-profiles.. at least in my scenario I have the problem that tightening the screws will bend the U Shape. I´d rather use square shaped profiles next time.

New Idea – Fail!! – will keep trying though ^^

Unfortunately, I was under the impression that aluminum isn´t a conductor. I guess I confused something since aluminum is a pretty good conductor, only the oxide layer gets in the way sometimes…

I am currently thinking about making an H-Quadkopter, where the front and hind arms are removable. Therefore some sort of connector is needed. That´s what I came up with… next time around I will need to adress the insulation problem ^^


Okto – Accessories assembled

Just to show off what the whole thing looks like with everything (so far) assembled :

Weight of the whole thing as seen on the picture is 1650g, adding battery, props, propmounts, camera and canopy would amount to an overall weight of ~ 2300g which is, unfortunately, too much for my recent setup. I guess I will bench the pannable landing gear until there is a bigger, or at least stronger, machine.

Pannable Landing Gear – Finished !?

Today I corrected the problem concerning the plates coming into contact with each other. As I said before I simply opened up the holes where the wheels went through the upper plate and mounted them from below, instead of from above. Now, there is about 3mm of leeway for the plates and heads of screws to pass each other by.

The only thing that doesn´t make me happy so far is the weight of 260g. I am considering drilling holes through the big wheel to reduce the weight and I guess I could replace most of the steel screws with nylon ones.

Here is also a video of how the thing moves.